By Charles Dubow

Years ago a friend of mine from Argentina announced he was getting into the wine business. Wine from Argentina? You must be joking, I said. Well, the joke was on me. Today Argentina exports more than $800 million worth of wine annually to the U.S. alone.

It is becoming increasingly likely that what doubters like me once thought about Argentine wine might one day be said of Hudson Valley wines. For years winemakers in the region have worked hard to grow their grapes in an unfriendly climate and, too often, their results were greeted with mild enthusiasm at best. 

“That’s the biggest challenge,” says Neil Grossman, proprietor of Elysabeth Vineyards in Millbrook. “Convincing people that we can actually grow good wine. They don’t believe that we can do it, but we can.”

It’s true. Neil and winemaker Greg Esch are producing excellent wines, ranging from a luscious Alsatian blend to a rich and supple pinot noir. I tasted them recently with Neil and was blown away. These wines are not just good, they are world-class.

Ironically, none of this would be possible if it were not for global warming. “Milder winters means more grape buds survive the cold winter nights and produce flowers and therefore fruit,” explains Esch. “Cumulative summer heat enables us to ripen wine grapes that 25 years ago would have been unripe in the Hudson Valley.”

Of course, Elysabeth has another advantage besides a committed owner, a talented winemaker, and a favorable climate. It also has the benefit of deep pockets. Neil is a former hedge funder who has degrees from Columbia and Columbia Law and did post-graduate work at Cambridge University. His wife Mindy is the former CEO of HSN and Weight Watchers. They did not need to purchase new land to start their vineyard; they simply set aside several acres on their large Millbrook estate. 

This is no vanity project. “We’ve plowed a lot of money into the place but the only thing I care about is making great wine.” Neil points out where the land has been graded, irrigated, and trenched. “It’s been a steep learning curve. I’ve always loved wine and I’m determined to prove that wines grown in New York State can be as good as anywhere.” New York could be the next Argentina—or better. No joke.

The vineyard bottled its first vintage in 2017 and today produces about 600 cases, all from grapes grown on the estate. The wines are available at Millerton Wine and Spirits and at select restaurants in the area.

Alsatian Blend

A white wine predominantly made from riesling with equal percentages of gewürztraminer and chardonnay that offers a very complex bouquet of white peach, rose petal, and stone fruit. This wine is perfect with soft white cheeses, white fish, shellfish, Indian and Asian cuisine. 

Chardonnay 

A classic chardonnay expression. In a blind taste, I would have thought southern Macon from Burgundy. The green apple, pear, and mineral sensation dictating a dry, linear style would go well with fish, fowl, or cheeses.

Rosé 

Reminiscent of a tavel. Neil attributes Domaine Tempier in Bandol as the inspiration for this deep and dry rose wine,  a blend of pinot noir and cab franc. Arguably, the best food pairing wine in the portfolio, it could frolic with fish, fowl, meats…whatever. 

Pinot Noir

I would never have dreamt that a pinot noir comparable to the French could be achieved in the East and yet here we are. Offering generous aromas of red fruit with slight whiffs of Asian spices and hen-of-the-woods, this crimson beauty drinks like true pinot. Pair with king salmon, venison, game birds, fungi, veal, pork.

Cabernet Franc 

A wine of which a Loire bourgeois would certainly approve. It shows off with blueberry, herbs, soft smoke, and with a rush of fresh forest air aromas. Full-bodied and muscular, this is a delicious winter pairing with meat, game, stews.

Meritage

Meritage is the American word for Bordeaux-style blend and it needs cabernet sauvignon, which traditionally has been difficult to grow in the Northeast. But Elysabeth has done it. Blended with merlot and cab franc this is a robust, chewy wine that goes perfectly with beef, lamb, stews, or shank. —Chris Jeans