By Charles Dubow

Photo by Jim Henkens

There are diners and there are diners. What typically springs to mind is a chrome-covered roadside attraction with lots of Naugahyde-covered booths, acres of Formica, a kaleidoscopic assortment of cakes under glass, and voluminous menus featuring everything from pancakes to a full turkey dinner. 

Then there is the Oakhurst Diner in Millerton. Chrome, check. Naugahyde, check. Formica, check. But after that the differences become apparent. Like most of the town of Millerton, it exudes post-ironic retro hipness, appealing as much to bearded and tattooed weekenders from Park Slope as it does to local silver-haired matrons. The main reason for its success, though, is the food. Most diners can be expected to produce edible if not unremarkable meals. The Oakhurst, or as most people refer to it, the “Millerton Diner,” takes its cooking very seriously—as well as great pride in exceeding expectations.

A quick glance at the (relatively short) menu is a tip-off that things are done differently here. Yes, there is classic diner fare such as Western omelettes, juicy cheeseburgers, and gooey tuna melts, but there is also one of the best beef and noodle Pho soups I have ever eaten. Rich and piquant, it was sheer brain-clearing, taste bud-tantalizing heaven. Continuing with this Asian theme there are chicken lemongrass dumplings, a báhn mi roast pork sandwich and Grama’s sweet sauce from Thailand. For vegans, there is even a Macro Plate with steamed broccoli, carrots, acorn squash, black beans, and organic brown rice served with tahini dill dressing and seaweed.

Thirsty patrons can not only get the usual coffee and sodas but also cocktails, local draft beers, CBD-infused Kombucha and a wide selection of Harney Teas. The last should come as no surprise since Paul Harney is one of the owners. He and two partners bought the diner in 2010 and overhauled the menu. It helped that one of his partners, Justin Panzer, had been a chef at two of the most celebrated restaurants in New York, Lutèce and Craft. “We thought we could do something with it,” Harney says with a certain degree of understatement. They did, and it works beautifully.

Photographed in the first image is Jessica LeJeune.

Closed Tues. and Wed.

19 Main Street, Millerton, oakhurst-diner.com