By Charles Dubow
Photo by Jim Henkens
There is something innately festive about Mexican food. It has a lot to do with the colors. All those pleasingly bright greens and reds and yellows send signals to your brain that your mouth is about to party. And that’s even before you take your first bite. Then the combination of meats, cheeses, vegetables and spices kick in, washed down with a cold cerveza or tangy margarita, and it is almost impossible not to feel happy.
That has consistently been my experience when eating at Puerta Azul in Salt Point, which has been open since 2006. This is a happy place. You don’t come here to feel sad. You come here for parties, celebrations or just drinks out with friends. Most nights the large open space, complete with indoor waterfall and a sophisticated mix of modern and traditional Mexican design, is packed with people eating and drinking and laughing. The energy is highest on Fridays when there is live music or a DJ.
What I especially like about Mexican food—or at least what most Americans consider Mexican food—is that it can be so dependably good. As long as the ingredients are of sufficient quality (and they are at Puerta Azul), in the hands of an experienced cook quesadillas taste like quesadillas, enchiladas like enchiladas, and Pico de Gallo like Pico de Gallo. But there are certain little touches, such as how the beans are prepared, that can mean the difference between a mediocre Mexican restaurant and a superior one. And the black beans at Puerta Azul are perfectly cooked and seasoned; not too runny, not too chewy, but just right.
There are no surprises on Puerta Azul’s menu. Diners can look for and find the classic rich assortment of dishes: guacamole (handmade table-side), nachos, empanadas, tacos, burritos, carne asada, arroz con pollo, et. al. This is by no means a bad thing because it’s all really tasty. Among my favorite dishes are the southwest salad—romaine, black beans, corn, tomato, onion, avocado, crispy jalapeno lime—and the carnitas, which is braised pork shoulder with tomatillo-chipotle salsa guacamole, pickled red onions and black beans. Delicious.
2510 Route 44, Millbrook
lapuertaazul.com