By Christopher Stella
Photographs by Jim Henkens
For years, “I wish there was a Thai restaurant here” has been a constant refrain among my neighbors living on the border of Dutchess and Litchfield counties. That wish has been granted by husband-and-wife team Jason Jeffords III and Arunee Pakaraphag, and their restaurant, Thai Baan at Tenmile Distillery in Wassaic.
Both have extensive careers in hospitality. Jeffords spent years working in New York City as a sommelier, immersing himself in craft cocktail culture at renowned institutions such as the Pegu Club, and managing restaurant openings—Jean Georges’ Tin Building among them.
Pakaraphag, the chef in the endeavor, grew up on a rice farm in Thailand. Her career in hospitality led her to the Hyatt in Dubai, a UK-based cruise line, and the IHG hotels in Oman.
But it wasn’t her experience in food and beverage service that re-ignited her love for cooking; it was preparing food to share with colleagues after long shifts. “The dishes I cook are based on what Thai people crave when living abroad,” notes Pakaraphag. “I learned to make the food I love.”
“We each have our areas of expertise, so it’s easy to work together,” says Jeffords. “Having a partner who understands hospitality at the highest level is important.”
Jeffords discovered Tenmile Distillery when owners Joel LeVangia and Eliza Dyson hired him to manage beverage distribution. Last summer, he and Pakaraphag had the opportunity to host pop-up events on-site, featuring her homestyle cooking. “We received a positive response,” recalls Jeffords. “Joel and Eliza were looking for a new, trusted partner to serve food in the space; we jumped at the opportunity.”
The synchronicity between the distillery and restaurant is natural.
“Whiskey goes with the toastiness of curry, and gin with ingredients like mint and lemon balm,” says Jeffords. “We’re exploring creating cocktails to complement the menu, and balance its spices.”
The scent of botanicals complements the food’s herbaceous notes. The building’s warm wooden interior—renovated using local timber—soaring ceilings, and new fireplace evoke a grand yet comfortable living room. Jeffords has strung a canopy of small lights above the seating area, bringing additional warmth and elegance to the space.
Pakaraphag notes that Thai food plays on multiple flavor senses: salty, savory, spicy, creamy—all in a single spoonful. It’s an apt description for every dish I tasted. The veggie spring rolls are light and crispy. The pad thai beautifully balances lemony and nutty. The tam yum fried rice is rich and savory, punctuated by fresh lemongrass. The crème brûlée with pandan is exceptional, offering coconut and vanilla accents.
Pakaraphag and Jeffords plan to grow herbs at the distillery, ingredients such as Thai chili and long beans on their Millbrook property, and to source protein locally.
And there’s new ground to break. “I’ve never heard of restaurants offering farm-to-table Thai food,” he says with a smile. “We get the opportunity to be the first.” Open Thursday and Friday, 5 to 9:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday noon to 9:30 p.m.
Thai Baan at Tenmile Distillery, 78 Sinpatch Road, Wassaic