By Charles Dubow
I don’t live in Millbrook but if I did I would dine at the Stissing House every night. It was my first visit back to the historic Pine Plains building in years. I remembered with fondness the French menu prepared by the previous chef but I was unprepared for how truly excellent the food is under new chef and proprietor Clare de Boer. (De Boer trained at London’s River Café and also owns King restaurant in Soho.) What particularly impressed me was the lack of complication about the menu. The ingredients, almost entirely sourced locally, were prepared in such a way as to let their natural flavors shine through.
Walking into the newly renovated 1782 building with its warren of dining rooms it is hard not to pick up a serious foodie vibe. The staff is young and knowledgeable, the kitchen open. The menu limited to what is available—and it changes weekly, if not daily.
On the night I dined there my first course was the summer bean salad with Fat Apple Farm bacon. It might have been the best salad I have ever eaten. There was something about the freshness of the warm beans, the juicy crunch of the bacon and sweetness of the basil that was so perfect I just had to sit there in mute bliss.
The rest of my meal was equally impressive. The day boat scallops served in green garlic butter sauce were lush and meaty and wonderfully satisfying. And for my main course, the marinated pork chop served with cannellini beans was so good that it took all my willpower not to pick up the bone and start gnawing on it.
And I don’t want to forget to mention their special Pine Plains martini: I have been known to enjoy the occasional martini and this, which was made by spraying essence of fir with an atomizer into the glass and then served bone cold, was a revelation. It has spoiled me for any other martini.
Even though I live in Connecticut, I consider it totally worthwhile to drive the hour it takes to get there as often as possible. It’s that good.
7801 S Main Street, Pine Plains, stissinghouse.com, 518-771-3064