Paradise sits on the crest of Pugsley Hill Road in Amenia. Walls of deftly sheared yew and arborvitae rise to the skies, pillows of clipped topiary flow one into the next, tunnels of beech arch overhead while fuchsia baskets shower their blossoms beside a water rill. It’s seriously divine. But to experience Wethersfield as Chauncey Devereaux Stillman—the landscape’s original owner—would prefer, you go through hell first.